Understanding Garlic Types: Hardneck versus Softneck
Garlic, with its pungent aroma and distinctive flavor, is a culinary staple enjoyed around the world. Beyond its use in the kitchen, garlic boasts a range of health benefits and can even act as a natural pest deterrent in the garden. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just starting out, learning how to propagate garlic is a rewarding endeavor. It allows you to save money, select specific varieties that thrive in your region, and embrace a more sustainable approach to gardening. While the primary method involves bulb division, bulbils also offer a unique propagation pathway. This guide will provide a step-by-step approach to successfully propagating garlic in your home garden, ensuring a bountiful harvest for years to come.
Understanding Garlic Types: Hardneck versus Softneck
Before diving into the propagation process, it’s crucial to understand the two main types of garlic: hardneck and softneck. Recognizing the differences between these varieties will influence your planting strategy and ultimately contribute to your success.
Hardneck garlic is characterized by its stiff, woody stalk, which is actually a flower stem known as a scape. These varieties typically produce fewer cloves per bulb compared to softneck types, but the cloves tend to be larger and possess a more intense, robust flavor. Hardneck garlic is generally better suited for colder climates, as it requires a period of vernalization (cold exposure) to properly develop.
Popular hardneck varieties include ‘German Extra Hardy,’ ‘Spanish Roja,’ and ‘Chesnok Red.’ A defining characteristic of hardneck garlic is the formation of bulbils, tiny aerial cloves that grow on the scape. While typically removed to encourage bulb growth, these bulbils can also be used for propagation, although it’s a longer process.
Softneck garlic, on the other hand, lacks a central stalk and produces numerous cloves per bulb. Its flavor is generally milder than hardneck garlic, making it a versatile addition to various dishes. Softneck garlic is better adapted to warmer climates and is often preferred for braiding due to its pliable stems.
Common softneck varieties include ‘California Early,’ ‘Silverskin,’ and ‘Artichoke.’ Unlike hardneck garlic, softneck varieties rarely produce bulbils.
Understanding the distinctions between hardneck and softneck garlic is paramount for several reasons. It helps you choose varieties that are well-suited to your climate. It affects planting depth, as hardneck garlic generally requires slightly deeper planting than softneck. Furthermore, knowing whether your garlic produces scapes (and therefore bulbils) opens up another propagation option.
Method one: Propagating Garlic from Cloves (Bulb Division)
Propagating garlic from cloves is the most common and straightforward method. It’s a relatively quick way to produce new garlic bulbs and allows you to maintain the genetic characteristics of your chosen variety.
The first step is selecting the right garlic bulbs for propagation. Opt for healthy, disease-free bulbs that are firm and plump. Avoid any bulbs that show signs of rot, mold, or pest damage. Choose the largest, most robust cloves from your selected bulbs. Larger cloves tend to produce larger, more vigorous plants.
Timing is also critical for successful garlic propagation. In most climates, the ideal time to plant garlic cloves is in the fall, typically a few weeks before the first expected frost. This allows the cloves to establish roots before winter sets in. In regions with particularly harsh winters, you can plant garlic in the early spring, as soon as the ground can be worked.
Proper soil preparation is essential for healthy garlic growth. Garlic thrives in well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter. Before planting, amend the soil with compost, well-rotted manure, or other organic materials. This will improve soil drainage, fertility, and overall structure. The ideal soil pH for garlic is between and .
When planting the cloves, carefully separate them from the bulb, being mindful not to damage the basal plate (the flat part where the roots emerge). Plant each clove individually, pointed end up, at a depth of about two to three inches for softneck varieties and four to six inches for hardneck varieties. Space the cloves about six to eight inches apart in rows that are twelve to fifteen inches apart. After planting, water the soil thoroughly to help settle the cloves and encourage root growth.
Ongoing care is crucial for healthy garlic plants. Water regularly, especially during dry periods, but avoid overwatering, as this can lead to rot. Keep the area around your garlic plants free of weeds, which can compete for nutrients and water. Mulching with straw, hay, or wood chips can help suppress weeds, retain moisture, and provide winter protection. Fertilizing your garlic plants is optional, but it can boost growth. If you choose to fertilize, use a balanced organic fertilizer or compost tea.
Be vigilant for common garlic problems, such as poor germination, pests, and diseases. Poor germination can be caused by planting cloves that are damaged, diseased, or too small. Control methods include proper preparation of the clove and soil. Pests like onion thrips and garlic mites can damage foliage and bulbs. Organic control methods include using insecticidal soap or neem oil. Diseases like white rot and fungal infections can also affect garlic. Ensure good air circulation and avoid overwatering to minimize disease problems.
Knowing when to harvest your garlic is the final critical piece. Look for visual signs such as the lower leaves starting to yellow and brown. Once about half the leaves have turned color, it’s likely time to harvest.
Method two: Propagating Garlic from Bulbils
While propagating garlic from cloves is the more common method, using bulbils offers another interesting option, particularly for hardneck varieties. Bulbils are small, aerial cloves that develop on the scape of hardneck garlic plants.
When harvesting garlic from cloves, you can collect the bulbils from the scape. These will need to be stored in a cool, dry place until it’s time to plant. Timing follows the same guide lines as cloves. Bulbils require a two-year cycle to produce full-sized bulbs.
Plant bulbils in the fall, spacing them about one to two inches apart in rows that are six to eight inches apart. Plant them about one inch deep. Care for them in much the same way as cloves, making sure to water regularly and keep weeds down. The first year, bulbils will typically produce small, round bulbs rather than segmented cloves.
Harvest these rounds in the summer, cure them, and then replant them in the fall. The second year, these rounds will develop into full-sized garlic bulbs with segmented cloves.
Using bulbils has both advantages and disadvantages. One advantage is that bulbils can potentially produce disease-free garlic plants. This is because bulbils are produced above ground, reducing the risk of soilborne diseases. Another advantage is that bulbils can be a good way to expand rare or unique garlic varieties. However, the main disadvantage of using bulbils is the longer time it takes to harvest a full-sized bulb, requiring a two-year cycle.
Harvesting and Curing Garlic
Harvesting your garlic at the right time is crucial for ensuring optimal flavor and storage life. As mentioned earlier, look for signs such as the lower leaves starting to yellow and brown.
When harvesting, carefully loosen the soil around the garlic bulbs with a garden fork or shovel. Gently lift the bulbs from the ground, being careful not to bruise or damage them.
Curing garlic is an essential step for long-term storage. Curing allows the bulbs to dry and develop a protective outer layer, preventing rot and extending their shelf life. To cure garlic, tie the plants in bundles of six to eight bulbs and hang them in a dry, well-ventilated, and shaded location. Alternatively, you can lay the bulbs on screens or racks, ensuring good air circulation.
Allow the garlic to cure for about two to four weeks, or until the necks are completely dry and the outer skins are papery. Once cured, trim the roots and remove any excess soil. You can also trim the stalks, leaving about one to two inches attached to the bulb.
Store your cured garlic in a cool, dry, and dark place. A temperature of between and is ideal. Proper storage will help your garlic last for several months.
Conclusion
Propagating garlic is a rewarding experience that allows you to cultivate your own supply of this flavorful and versatile herb. Whether you choose to propagate from cloves or bulbils, the process is relatively simple and straightforward. By understanding the different types of garlic, providing proper care, and following the steps outlined in this guide, you can enjoy a bountiful harvest of homegrown garlic for years to come. Don’t be afraid to experiment and discover which varieties thrive in your region. Embrace the satisfaction of growing your own garlic and enjoy the many culinary and health benefits it offers. So get out there and start propagating your own garlic today!
